Reroofing a 1960s Ranch or Split-Level in the Northwest Suburbs

Why is a 1960s ranch or split-level a particular kind of reroof?

Because the house has had time to accumulate history. The roof has probably been replaced at least once, the decking is decades old, the attic was built to older standards and renovations have added penetrations. A reroof on such a house is half renewal and half investigation, and the investigation is what drives the price.

Streamwood incorporated in 1957 with veterans' ranch homes, followed by two-story colonials. Hanover Park incorporated in 1958, with its first subdivision in 1959. Hoffman Estates had its first homeowners in late 1955 on half-acre lots and incorporated in 1959, and Schaumburg's Weathersfield began in 1959. Houses from that wave are now more than sixty years old.

By now the original roof has typically been replaced, sometimes twice, and sometimes by layering the new shingles over the old. A neighbor's experience with a tear-off is a useful clue, since builders on a street often used the same decking and framing.

A split-level adds a wrinkle: its roof planes sit at different heights, and the wall where the upper roof meets the lower is a flashing detail that ranches do not have. It is also where meltwater and wind-blown snow collect, which makes it one of the first places a roofer looks.

What does a roofer find under the old layers?

Often two things: more layers than the owner remembers, and decking that has been wet. Plank or early plywood sheathing shows staining, splits and soft spots along the eaves, around vents and below old valleys. None of this can be priced from the street, so the quote should carry a decking allowance.

The table sets out what is commonly found, what it means and what to ask. It describes patterns, not guarantees; each house is its own story.

The page on multi-layer tear-off and decking repair describes how a crew works through an older roof, and how replaced boards are documented.

How does a low pitch change the roofing?

A shallow slope sheds water slowly, so snow sits longer and meltwater has more time to refreeze at the eave. It makes the underlayment, eave protection and flashing more important, and it limits some materials. Ask the roofer to confirm that the shingle chosen is suitable for the slope under the maker's instructions.

Low-pitch porches, rear additions and carport extensions are common on these houses, and some are shallow enough that a membrane suits them better than shingles. A roofer should say which parts of the roof are shingled and which are not, and why. The page on asphalt shingle roofing covers the usual choice.

Because the slope is low, the eaves are where trouble starts. Ask whether a self-adhering waterproof membrane will run along the eaves and into the valleys, and how far up the roof it goes. The ice dam guide explains why that matters.

What about the attic?

On these houses the attic is where the roof's problems often begin. Insulation laid when the house was built has often settled or been disturbed, vents are few, and ceiling lights, fans and wiring added later have made holes. A reroof is the time to air seal, even out the insulation and improve intake and exhaust.

A roofer can add vents and baffles during the reroof, and may do some sealing. Larger insulation work is often done by a specialist. Ask for a single plan that names who does what, in the right order: seal, then insulate, then ventilate.

The page on attic ventilation and insulation explains the sequence. Adding vents first, to a leaky attic, draws warm air up faster and defeats the purpose.

How should I plan for chimneys, vents and additions?

Renew the flashing at every one. A reroof exposes the old metal and sealant, and tying new shingles into old flashing creates a weak joint. Chimneys, plumbing vents, exhaust fans and wall-to-roof joints at additions should each be named in the scope, with the metal specified and the old pieces shown to you.

Additions on these houses, such as family rooms, enclosed porches and garage conversions, often meet the main roof at a wall, a valley or a change of pitch. Each is a flashing detail and a leak risk. The pages on flashing repair and chimney flashing explain what a good detail looks like.

Ask also about skylights, which were popular in the 1970s and later, and about satellite dishes or old antenna mounts that left holes in the roof.

What do the permit and license rules mean for this job?

In Schaumburg a residential reroof needs a village permit, issued as an express permit with a final inspection, and the village asks for a copy of the roofer's Illinois license. Other villages differ, so ask the building department. The roofer's license number must appear on the contract, and you can check it in the state look-up.

The permit guide lists what has been confirmed for Schaumburg and Carol Stream and what to ask elsewhere. The license guide explains the check.

Houses in Hanover Park, Bartlett and a few other towns straddle county lines, so the permitting office can depend on the address. Give the exact street when you call.

What should a quote for this kind of house spell out?

The layers to be removed, the decking allowance, the eave and valley protection, the underlayment, the shingle product and grade, the flashing at every chimney and wall joint, the vents, the permit, disposal and cleanup, and the roofer's license number. A one-line quote for a house of this age is a sign the roofer has not looked closely.

Ranches and split-levels look simple from the street, and that is the danger: a short quote suggests a simple job, and the extras arrive after the tear-off. A scope with named items turns each extra into a pre-agreed price and gives you a basis to compare.

Where the house has a porch, a carport or a rear addition, ask for each section to be listed on its own line with its material. A flat or very low-pitch section may need a different system from the main roof, and mixing the two in one number hides the difference.

• Number of layers and where they were counted
• Decking allowance and the rate beyond it
• Eave and valley waterproof membrane, with how far it runs
• Underlayment and starter strip
• Shingle product, grade and color
• Flashing at chimneys, walls, dormers and vents, with the metal named
• Attic ventilation to be added or checked
• Permit, disposal, cleanup and the license number

What does the day-to-day of a tear-off feel like?

Expect noise, dust, a dumpster, workers from early morning and debris falling past the windows. Move cars, remove items from attic shelves and walls, and keep pets inside. A good crew protects plants, runs a magnet over the yard and tells you when the village final inspection is scheduled.

Vibration shakes loose dust in the attic, so cover stored belongings. Photographs and mirrors on upper walls may need to come down. If you work from home, ask what hours the crew starts and which days are the loudest.

A ranch is a gift for the crew in one respect: a low roof is easier to work on and quicker to strip than a steep two-story, though complicated additions add time. Ask for the expected number of working days in writing, and expect weather to move them.

Gutters and fascia sit at the eave, right where the roofer is working, so the crew may find soft fascia or loose gutters. Ask whether repair of those is in the quote, and whether the gutters will be removed and rehung or worked around.